Most recently updated 1/12/21

If you spent your teen years wiping away every trace of oil from your skin, then the boom of facial oils over the past few years has probably, at least slightly, confounded you. 

Much like the fat-free diet craze, the reason the oil-free skincare movement eventually sputtered out is because… oils aren’t bad for your skin. They never were. Extracted from the most nutrient-rich parts of plants, oils are nature’s original moisturizers, possessing myriad benefits. Here’s what you should know in order to maximize their powers.

Facial oils can sub in for your moisturizer 

A solid moisturizer needs three components: emollient ingredients (which soften skin), occlusive ingredients (which seal in moisture), and humectant ingredients (which hydrate). Typically, facial oils can have the first two, but are missing that last part. But, if you apply your face oil over damp skin, whether from washing your face or a hydrosol mist, you’ll “trap the water,” notes San Francisco skin therapist Tara Parenti. There you have it — a natural, and totally free, humectant. (And thus, a perfect moisturizer.)

They function like a treatment 

“Face oils can deliver a variety of nutrients to the skin,” says Marisa Plescia, research scientist at NakedPoppy. Chief among them are essential fatty acids and antioxidants. The former “fill in gaps, fissures, and cracks in the skin barrier,” notes Parenti, strengthening that outer layer and making it more resistant to damage and water loss. This is why face oils are super-helpful for dry, irritated, or sensitive skin, as those issues are usually tied to a weakened skin barrier

Antioxidants have endless advantages, but perhaps most notably, they can help protect your skin from damage caused by environmental factors, such as UV radiation and pollution, explains Plescia. 

Depending on the mix of essential fatty acids and antioxidants in any given blend, face oils can also address specific skin issues. Take jojoba oil, for example. “It’s biocompatible with our skin’s natural sebum,” says Parenti. When applied, it helps to balance our natural production of oil, which in turn curbs clogs and breakouts. Rosehip oil, rich in antioxidant vitamin A, has been shown to reduce the look of fine lines and hyperpigmentation, which is why it’s been referred to as a natural alternative to retinol. Lucky for you, both of these ingredients can be found in the NakedPoppy Revitalize Organic Facial Oil. 

Facial oils are naturally clean

Traditionally, facial oils are formulated with natural plant oils, says Plescia. Seeing their popularity rise, however, conventional beauty brands started making their own versions, subbing in synthetic emollients to make the formula cheaper. If anything, though, the synthetic ingredients only detract from what makes facial oils so remarkable in the first place — a decadently rich, nutrient-dense nectar. 

To ensure you’re getting the real deal, “scan the ingredient label for ingredients you recognize as plant-based, such as helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil,” advises Plescia. In addition, check the fragrance. Ideally, you want face oils that contain essential oils or fragrances that are labeled natural. If it just says fragrance, that’s a red flag since companies can hide endocrine-disrupting phthalates and other harmful chemicals in synthetic fragrance. Move along. Parenti says to look out for “petroleum and mineral oil” on the list. These chemicals are questionable for human and environmental health because of contamination concerns. 

They sink in beautifully

Applying facial oil feels incredible — the texture is mind-melting — and it makes sense when you consider that our skin loves it. “Skin’s outermost layer consists of a lipid matrix,” notes Plescia. Since oils are lipids, our skin recognizes them immediately and they easily absorb. This is particularly true if you’re using the more lightweight oils, which tend to come from seeds (like pumpkin seed oil), adds Parenti.

Application techniques largely come down to personal preference. But, for her part, Parenti likes to start with 3-5 drops. “I place them in a tightly cupped hand and pick them up with the middle and ring finger of my opposite hand,” she says. “Then, I apply it to cheeks, forehead, and neck before spreading it evenly onto all areas of my face with massage-like strokes.” 

Face oils layer like a dream

You will likely encounter a million different ways to layer your facial oil. Since your skin isn’t made of bricks, the truth is you’ll likely soak up their benefits any way you use them. But, generally, the way you layer your oil should depend on the oil, says Parenti. For lightweight oils, which aren’t super-occlusive, they should go onto skin first. If you want to add a lotion, it should go on top because “traditional creams are always going to be occlusive,” says Parenti. 

For heavier, more-occlusive oils, like one with a high concentration of avocado oil, these should go over lotion if you’re using one. Using a serum? If it’s water-based, it’ll usually go beneath your oil. But don’t forget: The beauty of face oil is that it’s like three products rolled into one. If you’re looking to cut some steps out of your routine, consider doing it here. 

Bonus: they make skin look instantly better

Between the subtly gleamy finish, the gentle massage to apply, and the line-smoothing fatty acids, putting on a few drops of face oil instantly revives your face. It’s akin to coffee in how it makes you look and feel more awake in the morning; keep it desk-side and you’ll want to pull it out and press it on to perk up your skin during any mid-day slumps. Parenti suggests using it as a natural highlighter, in fact: “Add a few drops of facial oil to your favorite cream, and then just press a small amount onto the high points of your face.” It’s a move that will lift your complexion — not to mention your mood. 

Click here to shop the NakedPoppy Revitalize Organic Facial Oil. 

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References

[1] A solid moisturizer needs emollient ingredients, occlusive ingredients, and humectant ingredients:

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5849435/

[2] Fatty acids strengthen the outer layer of skin:

https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40257-017-0301-1

[3] Antioxidants help protect your skin from damage caused by environmental factors:

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5514576/

[4] Jojoba oil helps to balance our natural production of oil:

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796020/

[5] Rosehip oil has been shown to reduce the look of fine lines and hyperpigmentation:

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4655903/

[6] Companies can hide the presence of phthalates in their products:

[7] Petroleum jelly and mineral oil are questionable for human and environmental health:

#ChemicalCallout: Mineral Oil and Petroleum Jelly